onlyone游戏攻略 theone游戏

他的目标不是摘星米其林，而是一座座高山。

跟随Marc Veyrat等多位名厨学习烹饪后，Emmanuel Renaut回到了他热爱的勃朗峰。1998年的春天，餐厅Flocons de Sel开业。在他的带领下，餐厅2001年摘得一星，2008年升至三星。

此时的Emmanuel ，不太像创造美食的厨师，更像是一个信使，试图传递尊重自然，尊重土壤、动物与人类自身的理念。

“我常常受到大自然的启发。我去散步，收集植物，从中选择来制作我的菜。我必须警惕天气的变化来调整菜单。我也尊重季节、天气和我所居住的土地，并以我能找到的东西为构想。”

米其林指南评委评价他的菜，“令人惊喜且融合”，“极其接近自然本色”。

他喜欢在山里探险、打猎，他认为烹饪就像滑雪，需要抛弃杂念，全身心投入。

当然，他的冒险精神远不止于此，他在公主邮轮号上打造了La Mer-雷诺法式餐厅，继续将理念传递下去。

展开全文

@Q：Massimo Esposito A：Emmanuel Renaut

带着热情工作，并传递下去

Q：你怎样决定成为一名厨师的呢？

A：40年前我就决定成为一名厨师，那时我还很年轻，14岁时就在厨房工作了。因为我很喜欢美食 ，也不精于学业，所以我必须工作，找一个对的职业并一直做下去。你知道，在14岁时要决定自己未来做什么，是相当费力的，不容易的。

因为你希望选择一条未来的道路，并能够长久地坚持下去，喜欢这个职业，乐于其中。 关于这一点，我必须说我很幸运，我的决定是正确的。

对我来说，生命中最好的事情就是遇到对的人。在厨房里，你需要有很多好伙伴和好帮手。在我的人生中，我在厨房里遇到了很多对的人，他们就像我的家人一样。所以，我都做了40年厨师了。

Emmanuel 的菜品风格简约自然

Q：在你职业生涯中，最重要的时刻是什么时候？我想应该有很多重要的时刻吧。

A：这确实很难回答，因为每天都很重要。

在我看来，最重要最美好的事情就是客人们在你的餐厅里对你说，谢谢你，主厨。

本质上来说，我们的工作就是为客人营造一个美好的时刻。

对我来说非常重要的是, 客人们能够记住我们在一起度过的一个短暂时间，对他们来说，是美好的。

因为生活并不容易，无论电视或报纸，坏消息时刻都在发生。但是在餐桌上的时间，你选择和你喜欢的人呆在一起。你走进一家餐厅，食物固然非常重要。但更重要的是你选择了和你一起走向餐桌的人，你的朋友，你的爱人，他们才是最重要的。

我自己有一家餐厅，每天餐厅里都会有客人，其中很多人或许一辈子只到我餐厅来一次，我们人生中只有这一次机会能够见面，因为他们从很远的地方来，或许是别的国家，甚至地球的另一边。

我们一辈子只能见一次，也许20年后他们会想起我，想到他们曾在我的餐厅用餐，有一些美味的食物，对我来说，这是非常珍贵的，非常美好的事情。

Q：的确如此。你觉得你现在工作跟最初的想法比，有什么改变吗？

A：当然了，很多事都改变了。最开始工作的时候，整天在后厨做一些简单的事情，每天削土豆。但不变的是你的激情，并乐于与他人分享这份热情。所以对你来说，最重要的就是带着热情去工作，并把这份热情传递下去。

我对我所有员工都这样说，我每天早上去厨房开始工作的时候都是开心的。如果有一天，我不想去了，我不再是这个想到工作就微笑的人了，没有激情去尝试做新的菜谱了，或者不再和他们有共同的愉悦感了，那我就会立刻停止，我会把餐厅交给其他人，不再由我来掌管。这一点我所有员工都知道。

我的餐厅不大，员工也没有太多，我们就像一个幸福的家庭一样。如果我对烹饪这件事失去了热爱和激情，我会立刻把“钥匙”交给其他人。

自然元素很巧妙地融入菜品中

有菜谱也要尝试几百次

Q：你对年轻厨师有什么建议吗？

A：现在的世界和以前完全不一样了，一切都发展的那么迅速。年轻的一代厨师，他们获取信息的途径比我们多太多了。以前，我们想学习一个其他厨师的菜谱，我们没有电子邮件，也没有谷歌，只能通过自己的双眼看，并且四处查阅资料。

我刚开始在厨房工作的时候，每天要从早上七点工作到凌晨一点。每天都在切菜、削土豆，做了大量的基础工作和训练。当然，你做得越多，收获也就越大。现在有各种方式很容易能够获得很多食谱，但自己也需要努力练习。有食谱是好事，但你也得努力训练自己的技巧和理解。有时候即使你有了菜谱，你也要尝试几百次才能做得更好，对食物有更深的理解。通过对食材和菜式不断的尝试，才会更有感觉，能够形成自己的风格。

我认为年轻厨师都比我们要幸运，他们有机会，有渠道去尝试很多事情。但是同时他们也需要了解菜谱，了解食物的本源。

Flocons de Sel的菜品

烹饪就像滑雪，需要全神贯注

Q：你为什么会在勃朗峰开Flocons de Sel餐厅。肯定有很多地方可选，为什么会选那儿？

A：我特别喜欢山区。

山间生活是我人生的一大乐趣。我喜欢在山里探险、打猎。

勃朗峰是全世界最美的山峰之一，我年轻的时候就已经决定，以后我要生活在那里。所以，无论我做什么职业，就算我不是厨师，我也会在勃朗峰周围工作生活。当然后来我选择了我的职业，这就是一个更好的组合了。勃朗峰离巴黎很近，那里有我的家人，这是一个完美的选择。

如果你有几个喜欢的事物，你可以把他们结合起来，那是非常美妙的事情。正因如此，我选择了勃朗峰，并努力找开设餐厅的好地方。

Q：你最爱的运动是什么? 这项运动对你的烹饪有影响吗？

A：我喜欢运动，我做很多山间的活动，远足、打猎等，但是最喜欢的还是滑雪。在滑雪的时候，你需要整装待发，那一分钟的时间你需要集中精力，什么杂事也不想，沿着雪道飞速滑下去。这十分有趣，这一分钟你需要心无旁骛。

在餐厅做菜的时候，也是一样的。你从第一道菜做到最后一道菜，就像是比赛一样，必须心无杂念，如果你刚开始失误了，结尾也不会太好。你自始至终都要整装待发。

Q：就像你之前说的，我们以前的生活不是这样的，我们只能通过双眼来学习。但现在不一样了，信息瞬息万变。我们有很多明星厨师，也有很多电视节目，在社交媒体大量曝光。所以你觉得未来厨师的发展趋势会怎样？

A：我们很幸运能拥有这么多东西。但是我们不能忘记我们是谁？我们是做什么的？我们只是厨师，我们的工作是烹饪。我们不是医生，我们并不能救死扶伤。无论我们得到多少媒体和网络的赞美，这都是我们最本职的工作，一刻都不能忘。我们要集中精力做我们该做的事，并且把它做到最好。

尊重食材与自然是菜品最重要的风格

Q：你在盛世公主号游轮上也有一个餐厅叫“La Mer”。在为这个新餐厅设计菜单的时候，有什么挑战吗？

A：挑战在于把我在勃朗峰的餐厅风味和在游轮上的La Mer餐厅结合起来。

首先在游轮上的餐厅配置和在陆地上就不同，我们在大海上航行，从食材的选择到厨房的设备加工，都有很多的差异，每一个部分都需要考虑到。

但是融合是很美妙的事，我们努力克服各种条件差异，把不同的口味带到邮轮的餐厅上。

这十分有趣，就像我之前说的。如果我在其中没有乐趣，我也不会做这个餐厅。我们每天都在变得更好，有很多成就感。这就是为什么我会做厨师的原因之一，每天你都期望自己能做的更好。每天都不是一成不变的，你一直在改进，在提升。当然，在La Mer的厨房里我有很好的团队，好的团队是成功的关键。

我是一个厨师，但我也喜欢教育我的团队。你知道，我们是普通人，我们不可能永远健在，所以我们必须传递一些信息和理念给下一代。所以，团队的成长是秘诀。

Emmanuel与 Massimo的合照

欢迎加入意大利厨师协会中国分会！

附录：英文采访

Q：So how did you decide to become a chef?

A: I decided to become a chef maybe about 40 years ago, when I was young, and I started working in the kitchen when I was 14.

Because I like eating and nice food, and I’m not good at studying, which means I have to work somewhere. So I tried to find a job that I’m obsessed with and keep it that way. Cause you know, it’s quite difficult to find a job when you are a 14-year-old young man.

I think it’s the way you choose that means a lot to you. You choose your future path and stick to it. So I’m glad that I made a good choice. More importantly, I think you must choose the job in which your passion lies. Meeting the right people is the best thing ever in my life, because in the kitchen you have to find some good colleagues, and I’ve met so many nice people during the time that I worked in the kitchen. we together are like a new family. So I’ve been a chef for 40 years.

Q：What is your most important moment on your professional life? We guess you have a lot anyway.

A：It is a quite difficult question, because, everyday is important. I think the most important and best thing for me is that the guests say thank you to me.

You know, we try our best to create a nice time, a wonderful moment for the guests. More importantly for me is that they can think of the time we spend together, hopefully a good moment for them cause life is quite difficult now. If you look at the TV, if you look at newspapers, bad news is being reported everyday. When you spend a little time around the table, you are always with nice people, because you choose to do it. What’s more, when you go into a restaurant, of course the food is really important, but the more important thing is the best thing for you, your friend, your wife. You know, I have a restaurant, we have guests sitting around the table everyday, some people may only come to my restaurant once a lifetime， because they come from a long way. Though I can see them only one time, it’s precious that they can remember me one time maybe 20 years later. When we are old, we remember the meal we had one day together. It is a very nice thing.

Q: What do you think about the job now, comparing the idea you had in the beginning. Anything changed in your perspective?

A: So many things, of course. When you start in the back kitchen, you peel potatoes all day long. It’s different. But it is the same passion. The point is to share something with somebody else.

So, for you, the most important thing is the passion you put in the job when you do it and to share with them.

I tell all my stuff. I have pleasure every morning to going the kitchen. If one day, I don’t want to, I am not the same person, If the day I am not really happy to go the kitchen to do some new dish, to have a good fun with them. then I stop, I give the key to somebody else. All my stuff know that.

We work, we have a small restaurant, it is a nice family. When I am not anymore this passionate, I give the key to someone else.

Q: Do you have any suggestions to the new generation of chef? The generation that comes up?

A: Everything is so quick. They know way more than us. Before, when you wanna do a recipe with another chefs, you don’t send the e-mail, you don’t search with Google, you have to look. You know, when I start being a chef, I start at 7 O’clock in the morning and I finish at 1 O’clock. All the day, you have to slice and you have to peel . The more you work, the more you learn.

Now, there exist some ready-made recipes, but you also have to work hard, to improve with the chef. Sometimes you already know the recipe, but you have to do 100, 200, 300 times, after that you could be better and understand more of the recipe. Because at the beginning, you copy the recipe, but you don't know much about it and I think the young chefs, they are better than me, they would try so many things before they make up their minds. They have to understand the recipe and they have to understand the root of the recipe.

Q: Wonderful. Why did you open your restaurant Flocons de Sel in the Mont Blanc, you must have plenty places to choose. Why there?

A: I love mountain. If I am not chef, I would still be around Mont Blanc. Before being a chef , I knew exactly where I would live. Because I near from Paris, but I love the mountain, and you know, when you have a few passion, mountain and kitchen, you can mix together. It is amazing. It is why I organize around Mont Blanc.

Q: What is your favorite sport and dose it have any influence in your food.

A: of course I love sports. I do a lot of sports, like walking in the mountain, doing some ski racing. You know, when ski racing, we go down the slop for 1 minute. I think it is interesting. You take out everything for 1 minute. When you are in the service, it’s the same way. You start from the first service to the last dish. It is like a competition. So you have to be. If you do something wrong at the beginning, it is not good at the end.

You have to be square from the first minute to the last minute.

Q: As you said before, we were not exposed like today. we just learn and catch information by our eyes.

Today things are different, we have so many celebrity chefs, there are TV programs, internet and all kinds of social media. So what do you think is the new trend of the kitchen?

A: I think we are very lucky to have so many things. But I think one thing we cannot forget : where we are from? What do we do?

We are only chef. We do only food. Only cook. We are not surgeon. We don’t save life. We have to focus on what we do, and do our best.

Q: And we know it is a fantastic place. We also know you have a restaurant in Majestic Princess called La Mer. So which is your big challenge when you have to do the menu of this new restaurant.

A: Mixing the styles of my restaurant in the Mont Blanc and of La Mer is a big challenge, and it is not the same situation when you do in the bistro in the land.

So it is nice to have a good mix with the flavor to bring a little bit of my food in the Ship. It is interesting, it’s like I do before. If I do not have a good fun in kitchen in La Mer, I don’t do that. It is a good fun for me. Everyday, we are getting better. It is why I want to be a chef, you expect to become better everyday. It is not fixed, when you have recipe, you have to improve. We have nice guys in the kitchen, it is good to have a good team.

I am a chef but I like to teach something else. You know, we can’t be alive forever, so we have to pass on something.

-end-

烹饪不是玩摆盘，而是找本味！